Escape from Morocco
From the Sahara to Europe: The Harrowing Journey of Moroccan Immigrants
Time and again, tales of young African men arriving on the shores of Europe in search of a better life have filled headlines. But who are these individuals, and what drives them to embark on such perilous journeys? In 2021 and 2022, I spent time in Morocco, shadowing the lives of young men chasing their dreams. These are their stories.
The Story of Hamza: Going South
In October 2021, during a hitchhiking trip near the Sahara, I encountered Hamza, a young man determined to find work in Dakhla, a coastal city in the heart of the Sahara.
"I'm looking for work", he said. "There will be work for me in the south".
With nothing but a small backpack and unwavering resolve, he was set on making the journey south. Despite police interruptions, we pressed on through sheer determination, navigating deserts and dangers, and sleeping under the open sky.
He was determined to get there, penniless that he was - he would even walk if needed. A kind man that he was, he would still refuse my money when we bought water, even sharing his bread with me. The snacks I had with me, I would split with him. For hours we walked with no complaining, trying to stop every car or truck that would pass by until we found some going our way. Slowly but surely we would gain some distance, even if the police occasionally brought us back to our starting point for that day - but helped us find a ride later.
Our paths eventually diverged in the last major settlement of Western Sahara. Hamza, adamant about not being a tourist, sought employment,
"I can't be a tourist, I have no money - I need to work"
highlighted the struggle faced by many in the region.
The western Sahara problem
Girl in traditional Saharawi clothes
The issue of the western Sahara would deserve its own article because of the complexity. A colony of Spain until 1975, Morocco considered it to be Terra nullius (No man's land) and annexed it in 1976 without asking the locals - which seems to happen quite often. Polisario Front, representing the Saharawi people, fought for independence, leading to various clashes and sunken ships near the Canary Islands. Morocco's efforts to claim the territory included building villages in the desert, claiming that they inhabited the land now. In order to fill these villages, they brought recruiters to the North of the country, prompting an influx of young men from cities like Fez and Casablanca, all seeking opportunities south.
But very few actually want to live in these villages, rendering them useless and abandoned. But maybe not entirely useless. It was a place of photography and free real estate to live in for me.
South of Imlili, Western Sahara
While continuing south towards Mauritania I encountered one of these sunken ships, next to a Saharawi tent camp. The locals told me it was a Spanish ship sunken by Polisario near the Canary Islands.
The abandoned village I slept in
The Harsh Path to Europe
In 2022, I received news that Hamza had successfully made it to Europe. He had borrowed money for the trip and left for the Canary Islands. I had spoken to smugglers in Dakhla and they informed me that the police were telling them when to go and when not to go. Allegedly ending migrants to Spain appears to be a larger diplomatic story as well.
His boat had taken... water. And he arrived on Spanish grounds with nothing but the clothes on his body. From there on he pulled some tricks and flew into mainland Europe, evading police and making it to Italy.
His journey, however, was far from easy or over. Working for a meagre 5 euros an hour for a construction company, he lived in constant fear of the police, who would regularly hunt immigrants like him. During my visit to his accommodation, he concealed himself beneath construction equipment, exemplifying the daily challenges faced by these immigrants.
Yet, despite the hardships, Hamza wore a brave smile when asked about his situation. "It's tough here," he admitted, "but it's better than Morocco."
The End of the Journey
Hamza's story sheds light on the harsh realities faced by Moroccan immigrants as they navigate deserts, conflicts, and discrimination in search of a better future. Their resilience and determination paint a picture of human strength against all odds. It's not up to me to judge whether it was right or wrong for him to do it, only to document it.
In Dakhla where I was working on my articles and book, I encountered plenty of these young people willing to risk everything for a chance to get to Europe. "It's paradise", they said. "The promised land where we can earn money". The desperation was there when I was asked to help them get to Europe, time and time again. Yet I'm simply a guy with a camera and a website.
In following the journeys of these individuals, it becomes clear that the pursuit of a brighter tomorrow is a universal dream, one that transcends borders and challenges. As we reflect on their experiences, may we recognise the shared humanity that binds us all, urging us to advocate for a world where such journeys are no longer a necessity, but a choice.