Joël Gugler

Global photography

Varanasi

Indian holy man in deep trance33.9391° N, 67.7100° E
Indian holy man in deep trance
33.9391° N, 67.7100° E

Part one of a three part series on the Cremation grounds of Varanasi.


Nestled on the banks of the sacred Ganges River, Varanasi, India, stands as a timeless testament to spirituality, mysticism, and cultural heritage. Known as the “City of Light” or “Banaras,” this ancient city has been an abode of spiritual seekers and pilgrims for thousands of years. Its captivating charm, deeply rooted traditions, and a kaleidoscope of vibrant rituals have earned it a reputation as one of the holiest places in the world. At the heart of this spiritual metropolis lie its revered holy men, who embody the essence of Varanasi’s mystique.


Indian holy men

Shankaracharya Swami Avimukteshwaranand 

Sadhu at Victoria’s shrine

Flower Baba

Shankaracharya Swami Avimukteshwaranand 

Venturing into Varanasi is akin to stepping into a mystical realm where the boundaries between the earthly and the divine blur into an ethereal tapestry. The city pulsates with energy, and the fervor of the devoted fills the air. From dawn to dusk, the Ganges becomes a stage for an extraordinary spectacle of rituals and ceremonies performed by holy men, each donned in distinctive saffron robes that symbolize their renunciation of worldly attachments.

They take their place along the Ghats

Shankaracharya Swami Avimukteshwaranand 
Shankaracharya Swami Avimukteshwaranand 

A so-called Naga-baba [Naga = Snake]

Naga Baba

This one performs tricks with his sword, literally wrapping his penis around the sword and occasionally having another person stand on the sword to show he has absolutely no pain, and thus – supernatural powers

Shankaracharya Swami Avimukteshwaranand 
Shankaracharya Swami Avimukteshwaranand 

Sadhu

Sadhu

Shankaracharya Swami Avimukteshwaranand 

Aghori Baba

cannibals who dress up and act like Shiva


Shankaracharya Swami Avimukteshwaranand 

Some are more important than others, this is one of the leaders of Hinduism

Shankaracharya Swami Avimukteshwaranand 

Shankaracharya Swami Avimukteshwaranand 

“We are the only group that calls the river Ganges  our mother, but also pollute the holy Ganges, people waste money on alcohol, instead of cleaning up the river”

As one of the four Shankaracharyas (basically the equivalent of the Hindu pope) – He came with a large entourage, 

People were worshipping his metal sandals while religious followers were standing next to him wit…

People were worshipping his metal sandals while religious followers were standing next to him with the trident of shiva.


Life at the Ghats

5000 Years of maintenance

Adult shiva worshipper

Young Indian girl

5000 Years of maintenance
Young and old dress up like Shiva

Varanasi is revered as the City of Shiva due to its significant Shiva temples, notably the Kashi Vishwanath Temple, and its location along the sacred Ganges River. Mentioned in ancient Hindu texts, Varanasi attracts pilgrims and tourists seeking blessings and spiritual experiences related to Lord Shiva, making it a prominent center for Shiva worship in Hinduism.

5000 Years of maintenance
5000 Years of maintenance

Varanasi is home to 87 ghats along the Ganges River. Each ghat holds cultural, religious, and historical significance, making Varanasi one of the most important pilgrimage sites in India. Many are ancient and need to be fixed due to high waters

Temples are placed throughout the city, for a variety of Gods and Goddesses. The locals named Queen Victoria a reincarnation of Lakshmi – bringer of wealth and prosperity.


Ganges river

When Lord Shiva was bathing a Mani (Jewel) from his earring fell into the kun…

When Lord Shiva was bathing a Mani (Jewel) from his earring fell into the kund, hence the name Manikarnika (Mani:Beads Karnam:Ear Angad: Ornament) Pilgrims from all over the world visit this temple to seek blessings from Lord Shiva.

Colorful Ganges at night
Colorful Ganges at night

Because a river passes along the Ghat’s, boats are incredibly important. Some people work on them in questionable outfits

Ganga Aarti Ceremony

Boat rests at the Ganges river

Man repairing boats

Ganga Aarti Ceremony

 

Ganga Aarti Ceremony

Ganga Aarti Ceremony








Rituals involving fire and smoke can be found throughout the city

Flowers and other objects are discharged into the river

Fire rituals

Fire ritual at the Ganges

Flowers and other objects are discharged into the river
Flowers and other objects are discharged into the river

Flowers and other objects are discharged into the river

The river is deeply polluted which can be seen in this timelapse. 

The river is deeply polluted which can be seen in this timelapse. 

Varanasi city of Shiva


Snake charmer

Snake charmer

A sizable percentage of the city are Brahmin, the highest Hindu caste - and the religious ones that memorize the important writings. There is a lot of discrimination between the different castes.
Brahmin

Brahmin


Cannabis

Varanasi is a cannabis paradise, it is widely consumed because of its link to shiva. A famous way to consume it is through a Lassi – the so-called ‘Bhang lassi’. The ‘Bhang’ is the almost resin form of already activated cannabis made from the leaves. It’s extraordinary potent for the inexperienced user.


“A Sadhu gave me a ball of Bhang—probably too much. I got so high I spent six hours on the roof thinking I was God. Never again!”

– Man on Bhang
Bhang lassi

Bhang lassi


City of the living and the dead

More on this in article two, about the Manikarnika Ghat of Varanasi and the cremation ground…

Dead body burning

There is also a form of dead cult in the city. And the cremations run the city. It is believed that if you die in Varanasi, you are closer to obtaining Moksha – not reincarnating ever again.

Dog with sweater

An interesting thing I saw in the city is that people tend to dress up animals in human clothing. I’ve seen sheep, docs, cows and goats dressed up like that

More on this in article two, about the Manikarnika Ghat of Varanasi and the cremation ground…

More on this in article two, about the Manikarnika Ghat of Varanasi and the cremation ground…

More on this in article two, about the Manikarnika Ghat of Varanasi and the cremation grounds located on it.